Ok guys ! This time we are trying something a bit different. You probably already hear about Chat GPT and the power of AI. Because I’m curious I was wondering what kind of advice an AI can give regarding a training program, and most particularly about finger strength and hangboarding. We can already find a lot of information on the internet, books .. and some people are even willing to pay in order to have a personalized program, But what can we get for free with an AI ?

I asked chat GPT to create a 3 months training program in order to increase my finger strength, focusing on hangboarding. I also added that my level is around grave V5-V6.

And because I’m lazy I also ask him (her ? it ?) to write the article !

Title: Unleashing the Power of AI Training: A Climber’s Guide to Enhanced Finger Strength

Introduction: In the world of climbing, the pursuit of finger strength is paramount to conquering challenging routes and bouldering problems. With the rising popularity of AI language models like Chat GPT, climbers are increasingly curious about the possibilities AI can offer. In this article, we explore the journey of a climber seeking to enhance their finger strength and how Chat GPT responded to their request for a personalized training program. Let’s delve into the program designed to take climbing to new heights.

The Climb and the Curiosity: Our climber, with an average level of experience, enjoys bouldering with a solid V5-V6 capability. However, driven by the hype around AI and Chat GPT’s capabilities, they approached the language model to create a comprehensive 3-month training program, honing in on the holy grail of climbing - finger strength.

Week 1-4 (Foundation Phase):

1/ Warm-up:

Begin each session with a thorough warm-up to get your muscles and tendons ready for the hangboard exercises. Spend around 10-15 minutes doing light cardio, dynamic stretching, and light climbing on easy holds.

2/ Hangboard Exercises:
Focus on holding the edges comfortably for 7-10 seconds and then resting for 3 minutes between sets. Use an edge depth that allows you to complete the desired number of sets and reps with proper form. Use an open-handed grip to reduce the risk of injury.

1st workout (2 times a week):

• 4 sets x 5 repetitions on large edges (18-20 mm).
• 4 sets x 5 repetitions on medium edges (12-14 mm).

2nd workout (2 times a week):

• 4 sets x 5 repetitions on small edges (6-8 mm).
• 4 sets x 5 repetitions on medium edges (12-14 mm).

Week 5-8 (Strength Building Phase):

1/ Warm-up:
Continue with the same warm-up routine as in the foundation phase.

2/ Hangboard Exercises:
Increase the intensity of your hangboard sessions by adding weight to your body using a weight vest or a harness with weights. This phase will focus on building finger strength.

1st workout (2 times a week):

• 5 sets x 5 repetitions on small edges (6-8 mm) with added weight.
• 5 sets x 5 repetitions on medium edges (12-14 mm) with added weight.

2nd workout (2 times a week):

• 5 sets x 5 repetitions on small edges (6-8 mm) with added weight.
• 5 sets x 5 repetitions on large edges (18-20 mm) with added weight.

Week 9-12 (Power and Endurance Phase):

1/ Warm-up:
Continue the same warm-up routine as before.

2/ Hangboard Exercises:
In this phase, you will focus on more dynamic and challenging hangboard exercises to improve power and endurance.

1st workout (2 times a week):

• 5 sets x 5 repetitions of max hangs on medium edges (12-14 mm) with added weight.
• 4 sets x 7 seconds of assisted one-arm hangs on small edges (6-8 mm) each arm.

2nd workout (2 times a week):

• 4 sets x 7 seconds of max hangs on large edges (18-20 mm) with added weight.
• 4 sets x 7 seconds of one-arm hangs on medium edges (12-14 mm) each arm.

Additional Tips:

Allow at least one day of rest between hangboard sessions to give your fingers ample time to recover. Listen to your body and avoid pushing yourself too hard if you feel pain or strain. Incorporate climbing days and other cross-training exercises to maintain overall fitness and prevent overuse injuries. Gradually increase the intensity of the hangboard exercises over the course of the program. After the 3-month training program, take a week of rest or light climbing before starting a new training cycle. Remember, training should be tailored to your individual needs and abilities, so feel free to adjust the program based on your progress and preferences. If you are uncertain about any part of the program or want to make personalized adjustments, consider seeking advice from a climbing coach or experienced climber. Happy training and climbing!

Of course! “With added weight” refers to using additional weight during your hangboard exercises to increase the intensity and challenge your finger strength further. Adding weight helps you gradually progress and develop more strength over time.

Determining the appropriate amount of weight to add can be a bit individualized and may depend on your current climbing level, body weight, and finger strength. Here are some general guidelines to help you determine how much weight to add during your hangboard training:

1. Body Percentage Method:

A common method is to add a percentage of your body weight as additional resistance. As a rule of thumb, you can start with adding about 5% to 15% of your body weight. For example, if you weigh 70 kg (154 lbs), you can add around 3.5 kg to 10.5 kg (7.7 lbs to 23.1 lbs) of extra weight during your hangboard exercises.

2. Relative Grip Difficulty:

Another way to determine the weight is to consider the grip difficulty. For smaller edges, you may need to use less weight, whereas larger edges can handle more weight. For example:

• Small edges (6-8 mm): Use less weight, around 5% to 10% of your body weight.
• Medium edges (12-14 mm): Add a moderate amount of weight, around 10% to 15% of your body weight. Large edges (18-20 mm): Add more weight, around 15% to 20% of your body weight.

3. Listen to Your Body:

The most crucial aspect is to listen to your body and avoid excessive strain. Start with a conservative amount of weight and gradually increase it as you progress. If you feel pain, discomfort, or excessive strain on your fingers or tendons, reduce the added weight or take a break to allow your fingers to recover.

4. Use a Weight Vest or Harness:

To add weight, you can use a weight vest or a harness specifically designed for hangboard training. These products allow you to add or remove weight easily, giving you the flexibility to adjust the resistance during your workouts.

5. Seek Professional Advice:

If you are uncertain about how much weight to add or if you have any concerns about your training, consider seeking advice from a climbing coach or experienced climber. They can provide personalized guidance based on your specific needs and goals.

Remember, hangboard training is intense, and adding weight significantly increases the load on your fingers and tendons. Take it slow, be patient, and prioritize proper form and safety throughout your training journey. Gradual and consistent progress will yield better results and reduce the risk of injury.